A before, during and after of the 360m2, 3 story, boat-shaped home I renovated on
Cerro Concepcion, Valparaiso
Please note that although I moved away from Valparaiso in 2010, I visit regularly and maintain a strong network of contacts in the city. If you are looking for real estate for sale in Valparaiso, Chile please just let me know and I'll be happy to help. And if you have already found a property but need help with any of the details, from an inspection from someone with deep experience of Valparaiso properties, to the legal aspects of buying real estate in Chile or help with renovations, then I can also assist.
Historic properties are easy to romanticise. High ceilings, original wooden floors, elaborate cornices and views across the Pacific can make an old house appear irresistible.
What the photographs rarely show are the termites quietly eating the structural frame, floors that have moved several centimetres downhill, obsolete wiring, damp rooms, improvised plumbing and the paperwork involved when the property stands inside a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
I know this because I have personally overseen the near-total reconstruction of a large historic house in Valparaíso.
The project involved a three-storey property dating from approximately 1870–1880. Over just eight months, we opened up the building, assessed and repaired its structure, restored original materials, replaced its services and turned what occasionally resembled a war zone back into a home.
It was exhausting, technically complicated and, at times, faintly absurd. The house is far and away the highest quality full and genuine renovation that Valparaiso has seen. It was also one of the most valuable experiences I have had in Chilean real estate.
Buying a historic house in Valparaíso
Firstly, it is actually quite hard to find real estate for sale in Valparaiso, Chile. There are a couple of well-known agents who over-price the properties and a few smaller ones who are easier to deal with. We were lucky to find and work with one of the smaller ones. We visited several different houses in Valparaiso with different agents and were happy to find what looked like our dream home!
The house occupied a prominent position on Cerro Concepción, in the heart of Valparaíso’s protected historic quarter. It was one of the city’s most emblematic houses but had been left in ruins. A large, ship-shaped building constructed into a steep hillside, down a narrow alleyway with no vehicular access, with entrances at different levels and a drop of around 30 metres from its upper level to the street below, it presented some serious challenges.
But the appeal was obvious. The house had views across the Pacific, towards the gardens on Valpo's most beautiful street (Lautaro Rosas) and, on clear days, towards the Andes and the mighty Aconcagua.
Inside were huge rooms, original timber floors, decorative (and original) ceiling cornices and the sort of architectural character that modern construction rarely reproduces.
Its condition was less straightforward. To say the least!
The initial plan was to modernise the property while preserving its historic identity. Preliminary investigations, however, revealed severe termite damage to almost all of the timber frame. Yikes.
There's always a moment in many renovation projects when the owner wonders why they bought the property at all. Mine arrived while looking at timber that had theoretically been holding up a three-storey house but had, in places, become an all-you-can-eat buffet for termites. Solid oak had been turned into paper.
Much of the oak structure holding up the house looked like this…
Investigating before deciding what to replace
Once work began, large sections of the interior finishes were removed so that the architects, engineer and builders could inspect the underlying structure.
This stage is essential when renovating a historic property in Chile, especially in Valparaiso where there is a termite infestation. An old building cannot be assessed properly from freshly painted walls and polished floors. The expensive problems are normally behind them. This is what usually happens in Valparaíso: owners renovate by simply improving the interior. The reality is that a huge percentage of buildings in Valparaíso have extensive termite damage to their structure and need significant remedial work. If you really want to save these old buildings, you really need to understand what it takes.
In our case, we realised that the entire structure needed replacing. The projected renovation cost suddenly jumped to almost five times the original budget.
Instead of using a new steel structure, which would have been quicker and easier, we decided to maintain the original construction technique of wood framing. If it was good enough to stand for more than 120 years, we reckoned it was worth repeating. And so started the slow and laborious process of jacking up each part of the house and replacing the damaged wood with larger, copper-treated, termite-resistant timber. Literally each part of the house was lifted by a couple of centimetres with hydraulic jacks, the old timber removed and the new timber put back in its place. A massive job.
Renovation requires imagination and an ability to come up with solutions to problems…and quickly. Occasionally it also requires not panicking when the building temporarily has fewer exterior walls than it did when you bought it!
Literally each section of the house was jacked up, the old structure removed and the new structure put back in place.
If you're looking for property in Valparaiso, Chile and need advice from someone who has been there and done that, please just get in touch!
Understanding how the historic building was constructed
Opening the walls revealed the beauty of the original construction.
The house had a heavy oak frame with diagonal braces providing lateral strength. Its lower foundations consisted of brickwork extending several metres above the ground, with large horizontal oak beams supporting the vertical structure. All of this was removed and replaced.
Between the timber frame were large adobe blocks, each weighing 10kg+, while adobe stucco had been applied internally over wooden strips. Corrugated iron protected the exterior—a form of construction typical of historic Valparaíso and the origin of my old blog’s name, Corrugated City.
There was a temptation to remove the adobe because of its weight and replace it with modern synthetic insulation. This had become common in local renovations, partly because owners worried about the behaviour of heavy materials during earthquakes.
Our engineers advised that the sound original adobe could remain. It provided excellent thermal and acoustic insulation, avoided unnecessary waste and had already survived generations of earthquakes.
We took them out, we put them back in. Each adobe block weighed about 10kg
The lesson here was not that old materials are always superior. It was just a simple waste not want not situation.
Earthquakes, settlement and uneven floors
Like many hillside buildings in Valparaíso, the house had moved over time. Earthquakes and gradual settlement had left a difference of around 12 centimetres across part of one floor. 12cm is a pretty big deviation.
A previous owner had dealt with this by constructing a second floor over the original one. That concealed the slope but also covered valuable original Douglas Fir floorboards with another layer of expensive raulí timber.
We removed the second floor, adjusted the supporting structure and brought the original boards back to the correct level. The raulí was retained for use elsewhere.
Between the floors, we introduced a layered system intended to improve rigidity, sound insulation and thermal performance. It incorporated treated timber, insulation, structural OSB panels, waterproof sheeting, steel mesh and a lightweight cement layer containing polystyrene pellets. The original wooden floorboards were then relaid above it.
This was a major intervention, but it addressed several issues at once: movement, noise transmission, insulation and the preservation of the original floor.
Repairing the lower-ground floor
The ground floor was originally the service area of the huge 360m2 house and had been converted into an independent apartment.
Part of the lower level had been constructed directly against the hillside. Behind cheap drywall, we discovered enormous rocks forming part of the original structure, with brickwork above them.
The room suffered from damp and inadequate ventilation. Covering the stone again would have reduced the available space and left the underlying problem unresolved.
Instead, the rocks and brickwork were cleaned and exposed as an architectural feature. Ventilation was introduced to prevent the room from becoming musty, and the heating system helped dry the remaining construction moisture.
The result looked amazing. Huge rocks and 120 year brickwork for the walls!
Heritage restrictions and permissions
Because the house stood inside Valparaíso’s UNESCO World Heritage area, changes affecting its exterior required particular care.
Our architects arranged a visit from a senior representative of the Consejo de Monumentos Nacionales. We explained the proposed work, the condition of the structure and our intention to restore the property as a permanent home rather than convert it into a superficial holiday development.
The fact that we were retaining original materials and restoring the building’s character helped establish a constructive relationship.
Owners of heritage properties in Chile should not assume that they can make visible changes merely because they own the building. Depending on the location and classification, approval may be required from the municipality, heritage authorities or both.
This needs to be investigated before finalising a design or renovation budget. A proposed new window, roof terrace or exterior alteration may look perfectly sensible on an architect’s drawing while remaining entirely unacceptable to the authority responsible for protecting the neighbourhood.
Rebuilding the exterior safely
Termites had also damaged the secondary timber frame to which the exterior corrugated-iron sheets were attached. If left untreated, sections of cladding could eventually have become detached.
Working on the exterior was particularly difficult because of the steep site and the height of the building. In places, the workers were operating approximately 20 metres above the ground.
Temporary steel supports and platforms were installed so that the timber could be replaced and the corrugated exterior repaired and repainted.
The house was given a deep red finish with contrasting white windows—a colour scheme that made an already conspicuous property even less inclined to blend quietly into the hillside.
We actually found a postcard from 1907 that featured the house—it was originally red.
And this image shows that the house was one of the very first on Cerro Concepcion, dating it back to the 1870s or possibly/probably even further back!
Valparaíso then provided a useful structural test in the form of an earthquake. While nearby buildings moved noticeably, the builders working inside our house did not even feel it. (Later on, in 2010 Chile suffered a huge 8.8 earthquake and the house barely moved and suffered zero damage.)
That did not remove the need for engineering analysis, but it was reassuring evidence that the original structural concept—properly repaired—continued to work.
Replacing services without destroying the character
The project included complete rewiring, new plumbing, central heating, new bathrooms and a new kitchen.
Installing modern services in a historic building requires planning because pipes, cables and heating systems must pass through an existing structure without unnecessarily damaging it.
The heating system was particularly important. Valparaíso’s climate is relatively mild, but large historic houses with high ceilings, sea air and poor previous insulation can be uncomfortably cold in winter.
New electrical conduits and heating pipes were introduced while the walls and floors were open. This was far more efficient than completing the decorative work and then discovering that another channel needed to be cut through it—a traditional renovation technique practised by anyone who enjoys paying twice!
Preserving and reproducing original details
Some of the most rewarding parts of the project involved details that had little structural importance but enormous architectural value.
The house contained decorative ceiling features, including male and female faces in the corners of two rooms. Unlike conventional plaster mouldings, the originals were made from papier-mâché.
The termite-damaged ceilings had to be removed, so the surviving faces were carefully recovered. Plaster moulds were then created from the best-preserved examples, allowing damaged or missing sections to be reproduced.
Originally in place, removed to make a plaster mold & returned once the ceiling had been replaced
The important point was that opening the building revealed physical evidence of its past. Wallpaper, newspapers, carpentry and decorative elements helped us understand how the house had evolved.
These discoveries should be documented before they are removed or covered again. They can influence restoration decisions and become part of the property’s history and future appeal.
Kitchens, bathrooms and handmade finishes
The kitchen cabinets were made from recycled oak, while the bathrooms and kitchen used old-style mosaic tiles.
We selected the patterns and colours and visited the factory where the tiles were being produced. I had assumed that “handmade” meant that someone adjusted a machine before a conveyor belt handled the serious work. In reality, each tile was formed individually, with the colours poured by hand.
The same attention was given to the wood-burning stove, original timber floors, windows, cornices and internal joinery.
One of the final jobs involved finding antique window locks known locally as sapos—frogs. Modern replacements looked wrong, so we searched antique markets in Valparaíso, Santiago and Belloto.
An expedition to Belloto’s enormous municipal market produced no locks whatsoever, although it did provide crowds, traffic, noise and what felt like a practical demonstration of every known method of pickpocketing. On the way home, we stopped at Valparaíso’s antique market and found exactly the number we needed.
Renovation planning can be precise. Renovation sourcing occasionally depends on luck and deciding to make one final stop.
Managing delays, workmanship and budgets
The project was originally expected to finish around Christmas and New Year. Work on the lower level proved substantially more extensive than anticipated, even after realising the structure needed completely rebuilding and the schedule slipped by approximately a month. That in itself was a miracle. From a superficial rehab to a total reconstruction in an extreme work site with only 1 month delay!!
There were also smaller setbacks. One floor was sanded and varnished badly enough that the contractor had to repeat the work. Double glazing took longer than expected. A missing radiator delayed completion of the heating system, although this was less urgent during summer.
These were not failures. They were normal features of a major renovation. In fact, we completed the work incredibly quickly and efficiently. The architects we hired to manage the build were genuinely amazed that we managed to get the project finished so quickly and, in the end, for an exceptionally good price given that we had effectively rebuilt the entire house from the ground up.
It cost us around 18UF/m2. To build the exact same house from scratch (which is usually cheaper than a full rebuild), on flat ground with easy access (the exact opposite of our project) to the extremely high standard we did, should have cost more than 32UF/m2 and more likely 35-38UF/m2
We managed this because we went to the site every single day. We made decisions on the spot. And we were lucky to find an incredibly talented foreman
A realistic project requires:
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A detailed scope of work before construction begins
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Structural investigation and professional reports
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A contingency for concealed damage
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Written budgets and payment stages
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Regular site supervision
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Quality checks before contractors leave
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Time allowances for specialist and handmade items
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Coordination between builders, carpenters, electricians and plumbers
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Early investigation of planning and heritage restrictions
The purpose of project management is not to pretend that nothing will go wrong. It is to identify problems early, control their financial impact and prevent one mistake from disrupting every trade that follows.
Completing the reconstruction
After approximately eight months, the main renovation was complete.
The timber structure had been repaired, the floors levelled and restored, the exterior rebuilt and painted, and the services replaced. The finished property included three bedrooms, several bathrooms, a new kitchen, central heating, restored decorative details and improved insulation.
Only limited alterations were made to the original internal layout. One large room was divided to create an additional bedroom and reception area, while recycled oak beams were left visible near the upstairs kitchen.
The finished house retained its scale and historic character but functioned as a modern home.
The small remaining jobs—mirrors, lights, shower fittings, window hardware and the inevitable last pieces of joinery—continued after the builders had technically “finished.” This is why the original blog described the house as finished más o menos: finished, more or less.
A major renovation is rarely completed in one dramatic moment. It gradually reaches the point at which the owner stops seeing a construction site and starts seeing a home again.
What this experience means for Chile Investments clients
For buyers exploring Chile real estate, older buildings can offer exceptional character and value, but only when their condition and renovation costs are properly understood. The project gave me first-hand experience of overseeing a complete historic-property reconstruction in Chile. It required coordination with architects, engineers, builders, specialist craftspeople, heritage authorities and suppliers. We travelled all over Valparaiso and Santiago sourcing materials.
More importantly, it taught me how quickly a superficially attractive property can become a complex structural project—and how much value can be created when the right building is restored properly.
When assessing older property for sale in Chile, I look beyond decoration and presentation. The important questions concern the structure, foundations, moisture, termites, services, permissions, materials, access and realistic cost of the proposed work.
Chile Investments can help international buyers evaluate renovation opportunities, coordinate independent legal and technical due diligence and manage the local professionals involved in a purchase of Chilean real estate. Our job is not to promise that an old property will be easy. Personal experience suggests something a little different!
Our role is to help clients understand what they are buying and what will be required to turn it into the property they want.
You can read the original renovation diary on Corrugated City.
For further information about buying or renovating real estate in Chile, see our property-buying guide or contact Chile Investments.
Click on an image to see the full renovation gallery (apologies for any repeated and/or out of chronological order images)
About the author
Matt Ridgway is a British real-estate agent, agricultural property specialist and boutique winery owner who has lived and worked in Chile for more than 20 years. Through Chile Investments, he helps Chilean and international clients find and purchase vineyards, wineries, farms, lifestyle properties and conservation land across Chile, including the Colchagua Valley, Santiago and Patagonia. His advice is based on first-hand experience of owning and operating businesses and property in Chile, combined with practical knowledge of the country’s real-estate market and purchasing process.
About the author
Matt Ridgway is a British real-estate consultant, property investor and boutique winery owner who has lived permanently in Chile since 2007. His advice is grounded in first-hand experience of buying, renovating and developing property and businesses in Chile.
